From the 1920s, the frock coat was increasingly replaced as day formal wear by the cut-away morning coat. While the dress coat and the morning coat are knee-length coats like the frock coat and traditionally share the waist seam of the precursor, they are distinguished by the cutaway of the skirt which gives dress coats and morning coats tails at the back. The cassock, a coat that is buttoned up to the neck, forming a high, stand-up Roman collar for clergymen, was harmonised to the style of the contemporary frock coat.īy the late 19th century, the knee-length dress coat, morning coat and shorter cut lounge suit were all standardized. The formal frock coat only buttoned down to the waist seam, which was decorated at the back with a pair of buttons. Especially so when double-breasted with peaked lapels, a style sometimes called a Prince Albert after Prince Albert, consort to Queen Victoria. Yet, from the end of the 19th century, with the gradual introduction of the lounge suit, the frock coat came to embody the most formal wear for daytime. The single-breasted frock coat sporting the notched (step) lapel was more associated with day-to-day professional informal wear. The top hat followed suit.Īlthough black trousers did occur, especially at daytime, the black frock coat was commonly worn with charcoal grey, pin-striped or checked formal trousers. Within its first next few years, though, plain black soon became the only established practice, and with a moderate collar. Early frock coats inherited the higher collars and voluminous lapels of the dress coat style at the time, and were sometimes offered in different, albeit increasingly dark, colours. However, by the 1820s, the frock coat was introduced along with full-length trousers, perhaps inspired by the then casual country leisure wear frock. In the Age of Revolution around the end of the 18th century, men abandoned the justaucorps with tricorne hats for the directoire style: dress coat with breeches or increasingly pantaloons, and top hats. As was usual with all coats in the 19th century, shoulder padding was rare or minimal. This is achieved by a high horizontal waist seam with side bodies, which are extra panels of fabric above the waist used to pull in the naturally cylindrical drape. These include the reverse collar and lapels, where the outer edge of the lapel is often cut from a separate piece of cloth from the main body and also a high degree of waist suppression around the waistcoat, where the coat's diameter round the waist is less than round the chest. It is a fitted, long-sleeved coat with a centre vent at the back and some features unusual in post-Victorian dress. JSTOR ( September 2020) ( Learn how and when to remove this template message)ĭouble wedding with grooms wearing formal black double-breasted frock coats with silk-faced lapels, light grey waistcoats, cashmere striped formal trousers, button dress boots, light gloves and Ascot-knotted cravats with cravat pin (April 1904).Ī frock coat is a formal men's coat characterised by a knee-length skirt cut all around the base just above the knee, popular during the Victorian and Edwardian periods (1830s–1910s).Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources. This article needs additional citations for verification.
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